The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on